A Visit to the Beautiful & Magical City of Cotacachi

A visit to Cotacachi is a MUST when making a trip through the beautiful country of Ecuador.

• Cotacachi was one of the first cities to be named “Pueblo Mágico” within Ecuador’s borders (2019). A Magical City.

Not only because it’s a friendly, authentic place in itself. But also because it’s a perfect base to explore the surrounding area, full of interesting & fun things to do.

• In the same year Cotacachi was recognized as a Magical City (2019), the province of Imbabura earned its own title. It became a Global Geopark, awarded by UNESCO. The first of its kind in our country.

A green province, blessed by several beautiful lakes, like the unique Cuicocha Crater Lake (a 15 minutes drive from Cotacachi). To name just one of the many attractions nearby.

Visit Cotacachi: Introduction

Absolutely true! In most guidebooks the nearby indigenous market town of Otavalo is mentioned more often as a major tourist destination. Reason why it is that it still gets more visitors than Cotacachi, but let me tell you…

For the last decade, Cotacachi has steadily stepped out of the shadow cast by its famous neighbor city.

• The distance between the two places is only 10km/ 6mi. A 20 minutes drive.

Even more so, for us – living in the area for over 30 years – Cotacachi is the New Otavalo. Let me explain:

The New Otavalo

Twenty years ago Otavalo was still a much smaller & more authentic highland city. Over the years it became busier & busier. Busy with people, but also busy with traffic.

• Now, don’t get me wrong. The (daily) handicraft market is still there & continues to be the best place in Ecuador to buy colorful souvenirs. However, during the last decades it has lost more & more of its authenticity.

Lost its soul, if you like. Also because in the inner city many older buildings have been replaced by modern ones. This way, the city little by little lost its former architectural cohesion.

Welcome to….Cotacachi

And that’s where Cotacachi comes in. Between the two places, by far the more authentic place to visit nowadays.

• It’s also NO surprise Cotacachi meanwhile became a favorite retirement spot for expats from all over the world. Mainly the US, Canada, but also people coming from Europe (like us).

Besides its easy-going vibe, Cotacachi also has its own attractions. Where Otavalo is known for its colorful fabrics & handwoven textiles, Cotacachi has a long history producing beautiful handmade leather works.

Visit Cotacachi: Basic Information

The official name of this small, Andean town is Santa Ana de Cotacachi.

• In fact it’s named after one of the Andean giants nearby, the often still snow capped Mt. Cotacachi (#11 of Ecuador, 4944m/ 16220ft).

The urban area of Cotacachi has only just over 10 000 inhabitants. While in the area around – in the “Cantón Cotacachi” – live almost 300 000 people.

Cotacachi is blessed with an eternal spring, generally meaning – if the climate isn’t off – sunny days & cooling nights.

As mentioned above, it’s one of the first places in Ecuador to get the title of “Pueblo Mágico“, a Magical place.

• Although formally a city, Cotacachi still feels like a village – a Magical Village.

Many residents in the city itself live from tourism. The rural population – mostly indigenous – also, but less. They mainly deliver fresh products to the town’s daily market. Something they have been doing for centuries now.

Cotacachi’s inhabitants

Most townspeople are “mestizos”, of mixed blood. That is, of Indigenous & Spanish ancestry. While many communities around are predominantly indigenous.

Life for most indigenous people in & around Cotacachi is deeply rooted in their historical worldview or Cosmovisión. Resulting in regular celebrations centered around the cycles of nature: sowing & reaping.

The most important “fiestas” being:

• Inti Raymi: Which celebrates the Sun (“Inti”, in quichua). A feast which coincides with the June solstice. Marking the harvest season (“la cosecha”), expressing the peasant’s gratitude for the bounty of the earth.  

• Pawkar Raymi: This celebration coincides with the flowering season & the March equinox. A time when the indigenous people honor water as the main provider of life & especially the flora.

Often the indigenous celebrations are a mixture of Spanish-Catholic & Pre-Colombian religious traditions.

Besides the local inhabitants, hundreds of foreigners have chosen Cotacachi as their home. Mainly retired people from North America, but also some Europeans.

Main reasons to visit Cotacachi

There are many reasons to visit Cotacachi. Besides the friendly city itself, it’s a perfect base to explore the many attractions nearby. Enough to stay for a while. If not, forever(!)

Things to do in Cotacachi itself

If you want to get to know a genuine highland town in Ecuador, Cotacachi is the place to visit. A safe, friendly place to stroll around, while getting a feel of a magical Andean city.

That is, get an idea of its authentic architectural style & the typical Spanish outlay around a central square.

As well as, of course, get to know its welcoming inhabitants. Their daily life. What they do & don’t. Including their fascinating history, culture & traditions.

• In the city center – half a block from the Central square – you can visit a small worthwhile museum introducing you to Cotacachi’s diverse culture & history.

Cotacachi was formally founded by the Spanish during the colonial period (1544). Its founder was the Dominican friar Pedro de la Peña.

• It’s IMPORTANT to note though that the site was already home to significant indigenous settlements before the Spaniards arrived.

Cotacachi is one of several important leather producing areas in the country & by far the best one. Reason why is that it’s called Ecuador’s “Capital del Cuero” (“Cuero”, meaning Leather).

• Jackets, shoes, boots, bags, purses, belts, hats,… you name it. In all kinds of colors & sizes. Besides many matching products, like colorful, woolen ponchos & other handicrafts.

In the main street of Cotacachi – Calle 10 de Agosto – you’ll find leather shop after leather shop.

Besides the many leather shops, Cotacachi offers a constantly growing number of excellent restaurants, cafeterias & delicacy shops (see below).

Cotacachi as a base to explore the area

Cotacachi is a perfect base to visit attractions in its surrounding area. Natural attractions, as well as other nearby villages, thermal springs or the equator.

Here’s a list (click on the highlighted name to learn more):

• The Otavalo Handicraft Market (20 minutes away in taxi or bus)
• The Cuicocha Crater Lake (uniquely beautiful also only 20 minutes away in car/taxi)
• Mojanda Lakes (Another green area, ideal for hikers who want to conquer the Fuya Fuya volcano)
• Peguche Waterfall (a small, natural park centered around an impressive waterfall)

• The Condor Park (birds of prey rescue center with daily flightshows)
• Handicraft Village Tour (weavers, hat makers, instruments, wood works….)
• Thermal Baths in Chachimbiro (for a relaxing day at the natural hot springs)
• Rural area around Zuleta (ideal for hiking, biking, horseback riding or just to relax…)
• Mitad del Mundo, Cayambe (to stand on two hemispheres at once & learn about it)
• The Hidden Village of Oyacachi (a full day tour, but absolutely worthwhile)

• Historical Zone of Pambamarca (dive in history, with mesmerizing views of the Northern Andes of Ecuador)
• The Pyramids of Cochasqui (another dive in the Pre-Columbian past)

Besides these nearby attractions, I also have to mention the Valley of Intag. A subtropical area which actually belongs to the canton, but feels like a world apart.

• I’m planning to write a post as soon as possible about this green area full of unique attractions.

Visit Cotacachi: Where to eat

There are many options to choose from in Cotacachi. I´ll give you some tips, but they are – logically – personal ones & limited to 2/3 for each category.

Local options

Restaurante Doña Esther Moreno

A restaurant with a long tradition, started by Doña Esther Moreno around 1930.

This place offers visitors one single typical local plate. A dish centered around specially prepared pork + several delicious side ingredients, like: corn, avocado, plantain, cheese & others.

• The pork is prepared with special spices – like annatto (achiote) – and smoked above a wood burning grill.

For more info, go to: Restaurante Carnes Coloradas “Esther Moreno”

You’ll find the restaurant very near the central square, in the Calle Bolivar. That’s the same place, Esther Moreno started to prepare the dishes almost a hundred years ago.

WARNING: This is not a place for vegetarians or vegans. Although, thinking about it, they can easily prepare you a special plate without meat, if asked for.

El Leñador

Unlike Doña Esther, El Leñador offers a wide range of typical Ecuadorian, as well as International dishes

Local options like: churrasco, locro, caldo de gallina, mote con chicharrón choclo con queso & many others.

But also International dishes, like: cordon bleu, pepper steak, other grilled meats & fish (parrilladas), pastas & salads.

Amongst them several vegetarian options.

You’ll find this restaurant on Calle Sucre & Juan Montalvo. A little distant from the city center, but in the end just a 10 minute walk from either park.

Food court “Mercado Central”

The food court or “Patio de comidas“ at the local market offers typical local plates, like: fritada, hornado, cebiches & others.

Freshly prepared & against the best prices.

International food

Vandanam restaurant (India)

Our personal favorite. Two young guys from India running this place with fabulous food. Extra helpful for many visitors is the fact they prefer English over Spanish, although they manage both languages.

We personally like our food spicy, but you have a choice. Before they start preparing your order you can indicate how spicy you want it to be. From 1 to 10.

Located at the corner of Calle Garcia Moreno & Rocafuerte.

Japonessa Cuisine (Japan)

One of the last international restaurants to open in Cotacachi is this Japanese restaurant. Run by an Otavaleño, who studied all the Japanese cuisine’s ins & outs. A healthy, tasty choice of food. Sushi & more.

Located on Calle Bolívar, not far from the Central Square.

Cafeterias

When it comes to cafeterias there are also many options. In this case, coincidentally all located near the Plaza San Francisco:  

Casa Toisan

Two local young sisters run this place. A cozy atmosphere & delicious freshly homemade delicacies. Ideal for lunch, or a light meal in the evening.

Located at the corner of 9 de Octubre & Rocafuerte.

Café Rio Intag

Probably the most famous cafeteria in Cotacachi, set in a beautiful house & garden. Many options here again, from breakfast, lunch to dinner plates, hot drinks, beer & cocktails.

Located half a block from the Plaza San Francisco, on Calle Rocafuerte.

Tamia’s Coffee

Another place which offers great breakfast & lunch dishes is Tamia’s Coffee. Often filled up – certainly Sunday mornings – but if you can get a table, go for it.

Delicious, freshly & professionally prepared food.

Delicacy shops

La Fonda

There are several delicacy shops in Cotacachi. However La Fonda is the best. Offering a wide collection of wines, cheeses & other delicacies.

Located just a block away from the Central Square in Calle Bolívar. Almost neighboring the early mentioned Japanese restaurant.

Farmer’s Market

Every Thursday morning (9-12 am) there’s a Farmer’s Market where you can get a wide selection of delicacies & other products. Located in front of the daily market.

On the following map you can find all mentioned spots in Cotacachi. However, don’t worry. Cotacachi is still small & friendly enough in case you get lost somehow. Everything is always nearby.

v

Visit Cotacachi: Where to stay

As you would guess, there are many options to stay overnight during your visit to Cotacachi. Be it a Hotel, or an Airbnb.

A hotel you can find on your preferred Hotel website. However, when it comes to an Airbnb I’d like to introduce you to our own.

An Airbnb we – that’s me & my wife Wendy – recently finished building. After owning & running a hotel in nearby Otavalo for over 22 years.

Casa Santa Ana

An Airbnb we named Casa Santa Ana. After the official name of our “Magical City”: Santa Ana de Cotacachi. As well as Wendy’s mother Anna.

Besides a spacious living room with chimney & full equipped kitchen, our Airbnb has two separate bedrooms. Each with its own bathroom. Ideal for 1, 2 to 4 people. Or also a family with 2 or 3 smaller children.

• Minimum stay: 3 nights. Maximum stay: several months.

From the partially covered rooftop terrace – also with a chimney – you have magnificent views of the old city center & surrounding area. Like the mountain of the same name in the background.

• Mt. Cotacachi is the 11th highest volcano of Ecuador (4,944m/16,220ft).

To learn more about this overnight option in Cotacachi, click on:

Casa Santa Ana, Cotacachi.